AsiaTalk: Snapshots from Japan by Rudy and Sarah Heller

For two weeks at the end of October, we had the good fortune to travel in Japan with Dan, your AsiaTalk columnist and our son. Some "snapshots" of the trip: Sixteen hours total flying time in "cattlecar" economy seating made us wonder if we would ever regain full use of our legs. However, it was definitely worth the discomfort! Japan is truly a distinct culture from the U.S., although we also have much in common. We are both fast-paced, hard-working societies, trying to get the most out of life. All the things you've heard about Japan may not be true, but some are, including the cleanliness, the safety, the care and pride people seem to take in their jobs. We were treated so kindly and courteously by waiters, salespeople and taxi drivers, that we experienced some culture shock upon our return to the curt, "all-business" US.

It is expensive in Japan. We had a hard time paying $5.00 for a cup of coffee that was not even bottomless! However, prices were more reasonable when we were able to eat at small establishments specializing in noodles and rice dishes. By the way, all restaurants display plastic replicas in the window -- lots of fun to figure out what to order! A medium bowl of noddles with a small amount of chicken and vegetables was typically around $5.00. Still expensive, but not enough to give you heartburn. The tourist spots, however are another story. Breakfast at one youth hostel (not even a hotel) was one slice of white bread and instant coffee for $3.00. Granted the slices were thick, but when we were told a second slice of bread would cost another dollar and an individual jelly container 50c, we decided we'd go to the bakery down the street and buy some pastries for $1.50 each or a donut for 85c.

You may think that we lost weight on our trip, but you'd be wrong. Thanks to the incredible hospitality of the many friends Dan has made, we ate like royalty. We hate to think of the cost of the beautiful meals they served us! And we were treated like VIPs also. We kept marveling at the extremely warm and generous people we met everywhere. Another marvel is the magnificent train system. Yes, they are as punctual as you've been told, and just as fast. Supershinkasens (bullet trains) reach 250 mph. We didn't travel at rush hour and so didn't experience being pushed into the train, but even at off hours, the rivers of people rushing through the stations are a sight to behold.

We also found fascinating the Japanese love of electricity. Downtown Tokyo, Nagoya, and Kyoto are lit up like Las Vegas. Common household appliances include electric rugs (nice for walking around in socks, which one always does--no shoes worn inside the house...ever!), hot water dispensers (for whenever you have the urge for a cup of tea), and electric toilets (heated soft seats and adjustable spray are standard).

Speaking of toilets, most public rest rooms have both Western sit-down and traditional Japanese, which is an elongated porcelain bowl set flat into floor. We never did get the knack of squatting without splashing for these, but it's all in what you are used to because we were told that when Western toilets were first introduced in Japan, people were unsure of how to use them and would climb up and squat on the seat. Now that took some balancing! We hate to dwell on toilets, but it seems like a basic bit of cultural difference that you may not hear about otherwise. One thing that we have never seen in the U.S. is a toilet top sink. A sink is fitted into the top of the holding tank. Upon flushing, water flows out of the faucet and down the drain into the toilet's tank. Thus you use clean water to wash your hands, which automatically drains into the holding tank. A clever way to recycle water.

Moving onto another topic (bet you're glad of that!) we verified the ubiquity of Japanese English (Dan's topic in last month's column). "Japish", as one person called it, is everywhere, especially as store names such as "Let's Kiosk" and "Green Fall Heaven". We're planning a Channel 8 special about it that may give you a chuckle. Of course, we're sure there is an equally humorous English Japanese that causes much mirth among Japanese natives. Well, no space left in this issue, but as you may have guessed, we could go on and on with our impressions about this friendly, safe country. We recommend a visit. If you'd like some ideas and suggestions, call us at 867-8494.